Sunday, June 1, 2008

Haleakala National Park-Haleakala Summit

After two days in Kipahulu at the base of Haleakala, I spent Saturday, May 31st en route to the 10,023-foot summit of this massive volcano. Unfortunately, the most direct route to the summit was closed due to a landslide, so I had to retrace my steps along the treacherous Hana Highway. Along the way, I made two stops that turned out to be pleasant surprises. The first was Wai‘anapanapa State Park, located slightly west of the town of Hana at the end of a residential road. Marked only by a small, unassuming sign, this park featured black sand beaches, an impressive lava tube, and a series of freshwater caves filled with turquoise water. The second stop was Waikamoi Nature Trail, a short, easy-to-moderate stroll through a stand of old-growth tropical forest. The trail was well-maintained and featured plaques identifying the various trees, shrubs, and flowers.

I arrived at Hosmer Grove Campground (~6,000 feet) a little after noon. This was probably the earliest that I had ever arrived at a campground, so I was a bit confused about how to set up a tent in broad daylight. After setting up camp, I wanted to get in a decent hike before it got too late, so I set off for Halemau'u trail and hiked the 3.7 miles (r/t) to and from the rim of the crater. I honestly wasn't prepared for the spectacular vista that greeted me at the crater's edge. The 'crater' (actually, it is the convergence of two erosional valleys) was filled with clouds pouring in through a gap facing out over the ocean. The heat from the valley floor prevented the clouds from extending all the way across the 'crater', so several cinder cones were visible in the distant east side of the valley.

After lunch at the rim, I headed back to the campground to hike the short trail through the adjacent forest. The size, diversity, and fragrance of the trees was overwhelming. Turns out that 'Hosmer', the namesake of the grove, planted subalpine trees from across the world during a forestry experiment in the early 1900's. Ironically, this non-native patch of forest houses the greatest density of birds in the entire park and is one of the most popular trails. Upon returning from this short hike, I discovered that a group of hippies had staked out the site next to mine and claimed the firepit that was clearly part of my site (their site was equipped with a less desirable elevated grill). I resisted the urge to be confrontational and instead set out for the summit to watch a sunset from above the clouds. At 10,023 feet, Haleakala is the highest point on Maui but, if measured from its base at the ocean floor, it is over 30,000 feet and is actually the world's third-highest mountain. I conquered this majestic peak in my Subaru Impreza (you can drive up to 10,003 feet) and watched a fantastic sunset followed by a futile attempt to identify constellations in one of the world's clearest night skies.

Back at camp, the hippies had a raging fire going in my fire pit and were engaged in all sorts of revelry. Turns out that they were pretty nice folk, and I accepted their offer of beer and poi as an appease-ment for the annexation of my fire pit. As I was planning to rise at 3:30 am to drive to the summit for the sunrise, I turned in relatively early. I had been warned that traffic to the summit could back up a mile or more prior to sunrise, so I woke up excessively early. Although impressive, I am not sure it was worth the sleep deprivation, two-hour wait, and 45 degree morning temperatures. Immediately adjacent to the summit is the Keonehe'ehe'e (Sliding Sands) Trail, a 5.2-mile strenuous hike with a 2,000-foot elevation change. Combine this with the 10,000-foot altitude and my severely bruised thighs (see previous post) and you can probably see why I nearly died coming back up the ridge. The hike down to the cinder cone was actually fantastic. The perspective from the floor of the 'crater' was incredible and the trail was flanked by numerous instances of the endangered Haleakala silversword (ahina ahina), an ephemeral plant found only on the slopes of this volcanic crater.

No comments: